One of my calipers is sticking. Should I:
1) send out to white horse or karps?
2) replace calipers? straight bmw replacement, correct?

Secondly, I've search other thread but where would I get spring? Cross to another car?

Peter the question for me is why is the calliper sticking. The replacement is very straightforward with BMW 5 series callipers with spacers that make room for the lamborghini disk. Which spring are you talking about? The only spring is the one that holds the pads in place. Otherwise the disk itself releases the pads and the hydraulics close them.

Very strange, I posted a lenghty reply and it never posted.

I apologize. I was rushed when I posted this. Let me explain.
The right front caliper is sticking. When I come back from brief drives, the right front is hot as heck and stinks.
Just asking for thoughts about replacing with BMW units, rebuild if there is a rebuild/gasket kit, or should I send out to White Post (here in the States) or the like? My Countach calipers should be addressed as well.

Secondly, the springs are the strut springs.
3 years ago I replaced the inserts with VW Corrado unti with the shoulder machined down. Ala Joe Frazar.
The ride was nicer but the car still is not stable on the highway. Like the tail wagging the dog. Almost feels like the right rear of the car is bouncy or dipping (of course, the engine corner). Which makes the handling nervous. While parked, I bounce both side of the rear and they seem ok. I know that is nothing when compared to actual driving. Nothing underneath broken and the car does not sag, sits pretty damn nice too.
So, the question is: Is there a replacement spring available? Crosses over to anything common?

Thirdly, the steering is notchy, moves in increments. Makes for a very unstable drive over 60mph. Anyone every heard of this?

peter

have tried contacting P300V8? he had some upgraded upgraded custom built dampers and springs for the V8 cars.

Peter if the brake is getting hot it can only be because the pads are not releasing from the disc. The discs are warped so as the turn the push the pads back into the calliper slightly. I can only assume that for some reason one of the pistons is sticking. Have you checked the condition of the pads. If the car hasnt been driven for some time the pistons some times stick in the calliper or the pads stick. Releasing the pads and checking the pistons may help apply some copper slip to the back of the pad surface stops it happening again.

If you want to replace the callipers they are simple to do. The front callipers for the 250 I know are from a 1972 BMW 5 series. They have a small spacer between the two halves to allow for the wider ventilated Lamborghini brake disc. They are however relatively easy to dissasemble and put back together. Dont lose the spacers or the tiny sealing rings.

Regarding the suspension springs. I doubt very much that the symptoms you describe are the springs. It sounds more like the dampers are at fault. Its very rare for springs to fail although they can break. Dampers however can leak and fail over a period of time. Ivor (P300V8) has done a lot of work on his suspension. He has a silohette which is slightly different but I think the rear is much the same. He also has a couple of companies that can help by replacing the inserts in the Macphearson struts. I think that will probably cure your problems. One other area that can make the car a little twitchy is the top mounts. these are more likely to fail on the front as they have to deal with more movement and turning. Ivor can help you with those as well as he has had some rose jointed ones manufactured at reasonable cost. The original rubber ones are no longer available.

Let us know how you get on

The right front caliper is sticking. When I come back from brief drives, the right front is hot as heck and stinks.


Peter, my thinking would be that you need to replace the flex lines to the caliper. I would bet that if you remove the wheel, and release the bleeder fluid would spurt out. After all these cars are over 30 years old and for sure it is time to replace all the flex lines.

Peter,

I agree w/ Chad (of course) on the flex lines - they should be replaced as a matter of course ... I have heard a lot of complaints about WhitePost in the past few years. There are other places and they are less expensive. Karp's for example as you mention. Wherever you go, get some good recommendations first.

Ground Control can also get you bits (or the full setup) to redo your suspension. Have the springs sagged? Is everything tight, bushings good? I am far from an expert, but this sounds like dampers - I know you replaced them recently. Let us know what you find out.

Not sure about the steering. Replacement units can be found. urraco airfilter Maybe ask A Wates what his ideas are on the steering?

Good luck!!

Bryan
'74 P250S S/N 15622
Indianapolis Indiana USA
blissinindy@yahoo.com

Peter I agree with Bryan that if you are looking at overhauling the callipers you should also replace or check over the brake hoses/flexible hoses. However if these are damaged they would not cause your brakes to stick. hose failure either results in a split and the brakes dont work or the hose expands reducing braking effort to the calliper. In this circumstance the car will often pull to one side as the braking is uneven. Unless one of them has a kink in it preventing the fluid returning almost impossible I would think.

Much more likely one of the pistons in the calliper has corroded and cannot return inside the sleeve. the heat and smell is caused by the pad running against the disc. As the pads in any car wear down the pistons stick out further this is normal. But the bit sticking out can corrode and it will then not return correctly forcing the pad against the disc. Alternatively you may have something stuck like a small stone. The calliper is easy to remove with four bolts and check over. You can do this by taking the wheel off removing the bolts and wiggling the calliper off the disc. See if you can leaver the brake pad with a large screwdriver. If the pistons dont go in BINGO. There are pictures of the callipers and pistons etc on my web site Urraco.

On the suspension I still suspect a damper or bush problem going by your symptoms. If the dampers have failed the car will bounce around the place. As I said befoe a feeling of vagueness is often the top mounts.

Regarding the steering the 250's used lancia beta racks. They have a small circular bush inside which is prone to breaking up. The rack is easy to remove and rebuild and the bush is readily available. However a feeling of notchy ness may be that or it may be a problem with the steering damper (plenty on that recently on the forum) It may also be a problem with the track rod ends. These are from an Alfa Romeo and are very easy to replace. Normally a failed track rod end gives a loose feeling to the steering rather than a notchyness but you never know.

Hope this is helpful

Regards Tony Wates

Hi Tony!!

It was Chad who suggested the flex lines, but I think it is a good suggestion. My understanding is the lines can also swell internally affecting the return of fluid ... Regardless, they aren't expensive or too hard to replace (I just took my old lines to a local brake shop that worked w/ braided lines and they made up replacements - bent some new hard lines for me as well).

Bottom line for Peter - check all the suggestions, it's ptrobably a combination :-)

As far as the suspension - vagueness meaning failed top mounts is good to know - think I need to look into that.

Nice to know the rack is easy to rebuild!! I would guess that or the track rod ends (or bushings?) are the source of Peter's problem - know next to nothing about the system though. What Alfa is the cross for the track rod ends?

Peter - the damper is fairly easy to source. Here's one thread on this P250 Urraco Steering Damper there are others as well. Worth a try as a relatively simple fix.

Regards to all,

Bryan
'74 P250S S/N 15622
Indianapolis Indiana USA
blissinindy@yahoo.com

Peter my website so you can look at the callipers is

Urraco

regards