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Old 10-07-2006, 12:57 PM
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Ok, any help please.

I just got home from a 10 mile run. The last one mile I down shifted to avoid a pot-hole. When I put it back in gear and started to go the right engine light came on and it seemed to lack power. I pulled over and shut the car off for about a minute. Started it again and the light went off. However, I still experience a lack of power. When I press on the gas nothing seems to happen quickly. The engine light now goes one after about a minute.

Engine code is 2. "Lambda sensor signal costantly poor:
output voltage constantly lower than 0.04 Vwith engine speed higher than 500rpm and KTJFAR factor constantly equal to 1 (mixture constantly rich)"

What does this mean? Can I fix it myself?

Last edited by SI LAMBO : 10-07-2006 at 01:14 PM.
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Old 10-07-2006, 01:56 PM
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With a dead O2 sensor, the closed loop mode of the FI system will fail thus the lack of power.

Checking the connection to the O2 sensor and maybe flipping O2 sensors between sides would be my plan of attack - its a simple 1st step to at least confirm the failure point...

-mick

Last edited by gday : 10-07-2006 at 02:05 PM.
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Old 10-07-2006, 02:50 PM
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The o2 sensor going bad wouldn't give you lack of power, or not very noticeable difference. If the sensor goes bad, and I've had this happen, the warning will tell you that the lambda probe is inactive. I think it's actually warning you of what is really going on, check fuel pumps are both working, check the ignition system on that side. Eliminate the easy things first.
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Old 10-07-2006, 03:08 PM
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Will driving it hurt anything? Lambo shop is about 10 miles away.
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Old 10-07-2006, 08:31 PM
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The critical sensor to the FI system when in closed loop mode is the O2 sensor. The O2 sensor solely controls the balancing of the fuel mix. It will lean the mixture when O2 reads rich and visa versa. A malfunctioning O2 sensor will thus lead to bad fuel mixtures which has to manifest as poor engine performance.

There is a normal output voltage level range that a working O2 sensor provides. A voltage output level of the O2 sensor at the low end of the range indicates a lean mix which will cause the FI system to inject more fuel. If more fuel is injected when the engine does not need it you will end up with un-burnt fuel going to the catalytic converter which is a "typical" source of fires.

If the failing engine side was deprived of fuel, I'd suggest that the engine would not run at all. More importantly, if the O2 sensor has reached a reasonable temp, then the output voltage level of a properly working O2 sensor should not fall below a certain level.

The CEL that you are getting is telling you that the voltage level is too low and out of range which is typical of a dead sensor. The FI system should then respond by going open loop ie an error state which will provide "wrong" fuel mixture - typically rich but probably not dangerous.

-mick

Last edited by gday : 10-07-2006 at 09:37 PM.
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Old 10-08-2006, 03:50 AM
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Mick, I just dont agree.If your sensor voltage is consistenly low, and does not correct when the system alters the fuel put into the injectors, this is what throws the code. At that point the system reverts to 'open loop' where the fuel input is not adjusted by the lambda sensor information.

If a lambda probe is bad, it stops being able to make a fluctuating voltage of .2 to .8 volts, and there is a steady voltage of .4 or .5 volts. This is what throws the code for'lamba snsor inactive'.



THe labmo engine will run surprisingly smoothly on one bank of cylinders. There will be reduced power and noise, and a cold exhaust, but do not think for a minute that these things won't run on one bank
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Old 10-08-2006, 04:40 AM
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A couple of more thoughts, I wouldn't drive it 10 miles unless you have a better idea what is going on, especially if the car has any catalysts.

Either borrow or purchase an infrared temperature sensor, you can put it on the 12 exhausts out of the engine, and will quickly see if one side, or one cyliner is not firing as it should.
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Old 10-08-2006, 07:23 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike
A couple of more thoughts, I wouldn't drive it 10 miles unless you have a better idea what is going on, especially if the car has any catalysts.

Either borrow or purchase an infrared temperature sensor, you can put it on the 12 exhausts out of the engine, and will quickly see if one side, or one cyliner is not firing as it should.
Both sides are firing, but it seems that when I depress the gas nothing happens. Might be the fuel pump(s). Are these fused? However, if only one fuel pump went out, wouldn't it only be less power on one side, or does the two pumps regulate into one? I'm getting the car on my lift today and will check some of these things out. I will check all the fuses firstOn Monday Evans will run me through a few other checks. I appreciate any comments and will keep you updated.
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Old 10-08-2006, 08:43 AM
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Nothing happens when you press the gas pedal ? It might be worth giving an exact description of the symptoms.

In answer to your question the fuel pumps are fused separately, no 42 and 43 located by the ECUs behind the passenger seat. The pumps supply each bank individually.

good luck
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Old 10-08-2006, 09:01 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mike
Nothing happens when you press the gas pedal ? It might be worth giving an exact description of the symptoms.

In answer to your question the fuel pumps are fused separately, no 42 and 43 located by the ECUs behind the passenger seat. The pumps supply each bank individually.

good luck

OK!

Symptoms as of right now:

- Start the car - takes longer than normal to start.

- Usually don't have to step on the gas to keep it started - now I have to play with it for about 10 sec.

- Code light goes off initally, then comes back on in about 30 sec.

- When I rev, it seems to have no power, but RPM will increase as I keep my foot on the gas.
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