A typical full paint correction will involve a lengthy and meticulous process as follows.

1. Pre rinse vehicles paintwork and allow to soak under a blanket of 'Snow Foam'

2. Whilst the cars paint is soaking to loosen up the dirt we clean the wheels using PH neutral wheel cleaner to remove brake dust and tar spots form both the face & the inside edges of the wheels. At the same time, the tires will be cleaned removing inground dirt.

3. Pre treat & jet wash inside the wheel arches to remove dirt.

4. Rinse the car's bodywork with clean water & then wash carefully using the "two bucket" method to minimize contaminant transferal to the cars paintwork, thereby minimizing infliction of "wash marks". All washing carried out using 100% lambs wool wash mitts.

5. The cars bodywork & wheels are the carefully dried using "waffle weave" and microfibre drying cloths.

6. Bonded contaminants on the cars paintwork are now removed using a clay bar to leave a smooth surface ready for machine polishing.

7. Measurements are then taken of the thickness of the cars paint using a Fischer paint thickness gauge; any areas that are thinner than desirable will require very careful consideration as to the best method of correction to avoid breaking through the paint.

8. Nearly ready for machine polishing now, but first we check the paint condition with the aid of a Brinkman paint inspection lamp, this makes spotting any imperfections a great deal easier.

9. Only now is the paintwork ready for machine polishing. Using an electrical machine polisher, we start with the finest grade of polish, gradually working up to coarser grades of polish as required to achieve a good level of correction. Then we work back down to the finest grade of polish to refine the paints finish. At all stages the cars trim adjacent to the area being worked on will be masked carefully to avoid damage.

10. At this stage it may be necessary to carry out some localized wet sanding to facilitate full removal of any RDS (random deep scratches), once again, paint thickness will be checked, if the paint is too thin wet sanding will not be possible.

11. Now we carry out a fully body wipe down with IPA to remove any residue from the polish, leaving your paint perfectly clean ready for the first stage in the waxing process.

12. The paintwork is now ready to be primed in preparation for application of the wax, we use. The ultimate in high-end care, our Zymol Vintage Detail is suited for those who demand supreme attention to detail and expert craftsmanship. Recommended for owners of classic, ultra-luxury and high performance exotic cars. The interior is treated similar to the Zymol Concours package but with greater care and attention to detail. Interior surfaces are cleaned, conditioned, and protected using only rare and exquisite plant-derived ingredients. The exterior finish is washed and decontaminated by hand using natural products. The exterior surface is hand-polished first using Zymol HD-Cleanse, a mild paint cleanser containing Montan Oil and crushed Apricot Seeds, further enhancing the shine, depth, and clarity. Finally, Zymol's Vintage Glaze is used on the exterior which brings out the depth, definition, and luster in the paint. It's reflective and protective properties are remarkable. Vintage Glaze is based on a custom formula developed for the 1947 Bentley Mark VI Cabriolet by Franay, winner of several "Best of Shows" in its debut year on the Concours circuit. Among the protective ingredients in Vintage are evergreen, honeydew, coconut, cantaloupe and sunflower oils. Vintage contains 61 percent Brazilian No. 1 White Carnauba by volume, one of the highest in any product designed to.

13. Only now is the car ready for waxing using Zymol waxes.

14. As a final touch we clean the glass. Dress the plastics, dress the tires and apply a wax sealant to the wheels to reduce the effects of brake dust & make future cleaning easier.

 

Phew!!!! that 's a complex workout...Zymol is what I use and I swear by it.

Secret #1: Use Two Buckets to Wash
Detailers know that the two bucket method is the best way to get your exterior clean. Use one bucket to hold your clean suds, and another bucket to hold clean water. Before you dip your cleaning mitt into the clean suds, rinse it off in the clean water bucket and wring it dry. Then, you're always putting a clean mitt into the clean suds that will go on your car. If you only use one bucket, you're just moving dirt off of your car, into your suds and back onto your car. use the Grit Guard insert, a $9.99 tray that helps sediment settle to the bottom of your wash bucket, instead of getting stirred up in the water and recollected on your wash mitt.

Secret #2: Join the Microfiber Revolution
We're living the microfiber revolution. Pro detailers use color-coded, task-specific microfiber cloths and towels for greater efficiency, lower friction and scratching and easier washing, rinsing and drying. Mike from Pro Mobile Auto Detail, emphasizes that it's important to wash your microfiber as a separate load, not mixed in with the regular laundry and rags. Microfiber will trap the lint from cotton towels, defeating the purpose of the wash. Use very little detergent and skip the fabric softener, which will coat the fibers and inhibit microfiber's qualities. Double up on the rinse cycle, and your microfiber will perform at its best. Remove any labels and stitching before you use your towels to avoid scratching. And remember, you get what you pay for -- those cheapo packs of microfiber from the warehouse store are not nearly as good as the ones you can find at online specialty stores.

Secret #3: Detail Your Trim First
This tip comes from Mike at Pro Mobile Auto Detail, I suggest using a trim protectant/restorer before waxing your paint. Wash and dry your vehicle, then apply the trim protectant. The product will repel polish and wax that might otherwise stain your trim. Some pro detailers use masking tape to protect the trim during waxing -- this application can help save time and cleanup.

Secret #4: Use a Buffer to Apply Product, a Towel to Remove
Consumers sometimes get confused by the name of the tool, and use a power buffer to remove wax or polish from the painted surfaces of their cars. A buffer can leave erratic swirl marks in your clear coat and paint if used to remove product, that's not what it's for. Use the buffer to apply wax, and then use a soft, dry cloth to remove it. You'll avoid burning the paint or damaging the clear coat, and you'll wind up with a thin, even coat of wax.

Secret #5: Get a Dual Action Polisher
For just a little bit more than you'd spend on a good direct drive polisher and an orbital polisher, you can get the perfect blend of both tools with a dual action polisher like the Flex XC 3401 VRG, which retails for around $280. Based in Stuttgart, Germany, Flex has been making tools since 1922, and has been building dedicated auto finish polishers since 1988. I say that it will handle 80% of the polishing chores you will encounter. Meguiars' Dual Action Polisher ($149) is a little more consumer friendly, and a little less expensive than the Flex. It doesn't have the forced rotation, which keeps the tool moving even under a heavy load. Forced rotation is a great feature for an expert who knows how to use it; in inexperienced hands, it can do more harm than good.

Secret #6: Use a Clay Bar System
This secret may be out of the bag already, but it's such a good one that it bears repeating. There's no better way to remove surface contaminants from paint than with a good clay bar system. Mike at Pro Mobile Auto detail been using clay for years, and consumer versions have been on the market for at least a decade. A good clay bar system includes a spray lubricant, usually a detailing spray, an 80 - 100 gram clay bar, and a towel. According to Mike from Pro Mobile Auto Detail, after washing and drying your car, you rub the clay bar on the paint to remove "bonded environmental contaminants" without removing paint thickness. The smoother paint surface takes polishing and wax better, and extends the life of subsequent treatments.

Secret #7: Use a Plastic Grocery Bag to Check the Paint Surface
Hers's another tip from Mike at Pro Mobile Auto Detail. Once you have cleaned your paint's surface of contaminants with a clay bar system or other cleaner, it's important to make sure that you've really removed all the dirt before you seal the surface with wax. Put your hand in an ordinary thin plastic grocery bag, and run it over the surface of the paint. The plastic bag will amplify any bumps and imperfections, so that you can go back and detail again. Keep rechecking until the surface is totally smooth, then polish (if necessary) and apply protective wax.

Secret #8: Dry Your Glass in Two Directions
Here's a great tip from Mike at Pro Mobile Auto Detail: Dry your glass in two directions. Get into the habit of doing your final wipe of interior glass in a horizontal direction, and the final wipe on the exterior in a vertical direction. Then, when you find the inevitable streak, you'll instantly know whether it's on the inside (horizontal) or the outside (vertical) of the glass. You'll get perfectly clear glass without jumping in and out of the vehicle chasing that streak.

Secret #9: Brush It First
Mike at Pro Mobile Auto Detail says that when it comes to cleaning interiors, mechanical agitation is always better than chemical intervention. That means that your first line of attack is a good brush. For instance, before vacuuming your carpeting, de-mat the fibers by using a stiff nylon brush. Then, when you vacuum, the dirt will be free in the carpet, and will be much easier to extract. The same goes for door panels, though you'll want to use a gentler brush. If more aggressive cleaning is necessary, start gently, use a gentle solution of fabric cleaner, and dry with a soft cotton cloth.

Secret #10:Make Static Electricity Your Friend
To remove stubborn pet hair from your cars carpets, put on a pair of latex gloves (readily available in boxes of 100 from any home improvement store) and then rub your hand over the carpet. The static electricity caused by the latex glove will help bring the pet hair up to the surface of the carpet for easy removal by hand or vacuum

Secret #11: Leave the Headliner Alone
According to Mike, there's one part of the car that detailers avoid if at all possible: the headliner. Even a little bit of agitation can cause the glue in a headliner to fail, causing way more problems than it is worth. Keep your ministrations to a minimum when it comes to cleaning, brushing and tending to the headliner fabric. If you positively must clean your headliner, use very little moisture, and never allow it to soak through the outer fabric.

Auto detailing can be a great way to bond with your car, and to make your automotive investment go farther, last longer and look better. Hopefully these Top Secrets of the Auto Detailers will help you and your ride along the way.

Everything I post is something I’ve done, usually something I keep doing as it works, so please don’t take it to heart if it differs from your process and, as always, do anything I say at your own risk.

The
1. Wash
2 Clay
3. Wash
4. Dry
5. Polish
6. Seal
7. Maintain (Very important step)


Detailed explanation/instructions:


Washing

Many people have adopted the 2-bucket method… one rinse bucket and one soap/wash bucket. The idea is that you soak the sponge/mitt (whatever you’re using to wash) in the wash bucket, wash a section of the car, rinse the sponge off in the rinse bucket, then go to the wash bucket again and wash a section again, etc. While this is good practice, definitely better than using just one bucket, it’s not perfect so to speak. The idea behind the 2-bucket method is that dirt trapped in the sponge after washing down a section will be released into the rinse bucket, so it’s not brought back to the paint. Problem is, all that dirt (depending on how dirty a car is) is usually not going to come out completely, or even close to completely, into the rinse bucket. The best way to do it is to rinse the sponge with the hose thoroughly after washing a section, which will ensure most, if not all, trapped dirt, is rinsed out. After that, you can use either 1 or 2 buckets… I still use 2-buckets (I rinse the sponge into the rinse bucket AFTER rinsing it with the hose) then start with the wash bucket again. The main thing is that the soap/water solution in the wash bucket should be as clean at the end of the wash as it was when you started. This is my process, which has worked great for over eight years now:

1. Pre-wash:
Before washing the entire car you want to begin with a thorough rinse, starting with low pressure to get it wet, then high pressure to get rid of as much loose dirt as possible. Then you should check around the entire car for any serious and heavy contamination, such as tar, tree sap, etc. and apply a cleaner to those areas so you do not damage the paint during washing these areas by scrubbing hard.

2. Wash wheels:
tires and wheel wells: You always want to start with the wheels and tires and finish them completely for two reasons, a. they’re always the most dirty areas and you want to clean those first to get most of the dirt off the vehicle as a whole, and b. any excess of dressing applied to tires and wheel wells will be washed off during the wash if it gets onto the paint around the wheels. To wash the wheels and tires, first spray an all-purpose cleaner onto the wheel wells and tires (or use tire cleaner for tires). Then spray a wheel cleaner onto the wheels. (I like to do 1 side at a time so the cleaners don’t dry, which usually happens if you spray all 4 wheels/tires) If the car has enough of a gap, try to get a brush, or at least a terry towel, under the wheel wells to scrub them clean after the cleaner is sprayed on. Then, scrub the tires with a brush or terry towel to clean them. Lastly take a brush or microfiber towel to the wheels and clean them after the cleaner is on there. Rinse everything off and dry thoroughly before applying a dressing to tires and wheel wells. You can wax the wheels later, when you do the paint, or at this point… either one is fine. Move on to washing the paint surfaces.

3. Wash paint:
As mentioned above, use 2-bucket method. I use two 5-gallon buckets both with grit guards in them. I fill the rinse bucket to about 4 gallons and let sponges (1 sponge for lower panels, 1 for upper) soak in there for a minute, while I add about 1 gallon of water to the wash bucket, then 4oz. of soap (different soaps will suggest different amount per gallon) then about 3 more gallons with a hard spray to get all the soap bubbly. Next, leaving one sponge in the rinse bucket, I take the one I’ll be using on upper panels, soak it a bit in the wash bucket, then wash half the roof, rinse the sponge with the hose, throw it in the rinse bucket, rinse off the half-roof section I just washed, wring the sponge into the rinse bucket, soak in wash bucket again, wash other half of roof, etc. I do the roof in two parts, then whole trunk (including back section but not bumper), then hood in two parts, then all glass (front windshield, back glass, windows, mirrors), then upper half of panels on one side, then upper half of panels on the other side, then (with the sponge for lower panels) I do the lower half of panels one side, then lower half of panels on the other side, rear bumper and finally front bumper along with headlights, grille, etc. After every of these sections I’m doing the same thing as before, rinsing the sponge out with the hose, washing the section off, wringing sponge into rinse bucket, then moving on. The idea here is to do a small section when washing so only a little dirt is trapped into the sponge, making it easier to rinse off. You wash the section off immediately as to not have potential water/soap solution drying up on the car and leaving spots. Throughout the wash, you will want to rinse the entire car, especially if it is hot and sunny outside, to keep any water from drying on any panel. When you are about to fully detail the car, this is not a huge deal as you’ll be out any of those dried up water spots easily with the lightest of polishes, but for maintenance washes it’s extremely important because you don’t want to scrub the water spots later when drying. After all that is said and done, and every panels is thoroughly washed and clean, rinse the car off one last time, making sure to get a good stream into all the door, trunk jambs, etc. to get any leftover soap out. Lastly, set the hose nozzle on a very light stream and lower the pressure (I use a on/off valve between the hose and nozzle to make this easier) and “wash the water off” the car by lightly rinsing… this makes most of the water come off as it doesn’t stay in the usual beads, rather just flows off.


Claying

to determine if you need to clay a car, you should wash the car, dry it, then feel for any contamination stuck in the paint, which cannot be removed with washing, or even polishing sometimes. To do this, place your hand inside a Ziploc bag, and run it over the paint… you can also do it with a clean, dry, bare hand. The paint should feel very smooth with no little “bumps” if it does not need to be clayed. If it does, sometimes it is so bad that when you run your finger over the paint, it will feel like you are touching sandpaper… other times you simply feel a bunch of very tiny bumps on the paint, indicating there are small particles stuck into the paint, only removable by claying the car. Usually you can also feel these contaminants when the paint is still wet, but water will make them less obvious, so it is better to check on clean, dry paint. Lastly, the most contaminated areas will be the hood, fenders, front of roof, and front bumper obviously; this is simply because these parts are driving into the contamination. This method of checking (wash, dry, check/clay) goes against my process above (wash, clay, dry) simply because the process above is for a complete detail, when you know you will be claying the car. Once you’ve determined you will be claying the car, the process is simple:

1. Spray a section of paint (about ½ or ¼ of roof, and move along same as with the wash process… roof, hood, trunk, etc.), with lots of lube (any quick detailer can be used as clay lube, but DO NOT use a spray wax type product… make sure it is a pure quick detailer which is only meant for light cleaning of dust, etc. and has no waxing/sealing abilities, as this will make a huge mess when claying.. basically you’ll be applying a wax with a clay bar, the tool meant to remove wax in the first place…)

2. Move the clay bar very LIGHTLY (only pressure necessary is enough to keep the clay bar touching the paint, nothing else) over the paint, in any motion you prefer (I usually do the simple, up, down, up, etc.), until you feel no more contamination being removed… you will either feel it on the clay bar or hear, or both, as the clay bar removes contamination on the paint while you’re moving it, and later you will be able to touch the dried surface and notice a difference before/after.

3. Once, you have completed a section, dry off the lube and clay residue (See the alternate step in the Drying section below), feel the difference, and then move on.

4. (Optional) it is not always necessary but it is always recommended to clay the wheels on your car to remove some stuck on brake dust, and similar contamination as in the paint. Process is the same for wheels since they are usually painted.

The main thing with clay is to keep a lot of lube on the paint surface and to apply no pressure other than what I mentioned above. If there is not enough lube, or if there is too much pressure, the clay bar will start leaving marring on the paint by sticking to the paint. Very aggressive clay bars cannot only leave a somewhat solid residue with not enough lube, but can actually mar the paint due to them being so aggressive. This is why the saying “try the least aggressive method first” should always be the #1 thing in your head when maintaining and/or correcting the paint on your car (and especially a client’s car).


Drying

Drying is the most damaging step as far as maintenance of a car goes usually, simply because not enough care is taken and dirty towels are used. During washing, you at least have some lubrication and a tool (sponge) to pick up and contain some of the loose dirt. When drying, however, you’re wiping paint with a towel with very short nap, especially compared to a wash sponge/mitt, and the more you wipe on the paint the more chances you have of introducing swirl marks into the paint. Some paints, Porsche for example, are EXTREMELY soft, and any pressure and/or additional, unnecessary drying/wiping on the paint will results in pretty noticeable scratches, especially on black. BMW has some pretty hard paints usually, but jet black is soft sometimes and other colors might randomly be soft, so always practice being careful when drying. The best process I’ve found works for me is:

1. If doing drying right after washing, use a large, microfiber, waffle drying towel and simply blot-dry the entire car with it. Use as many towels as necessary (I use 2-4 depending on car size; E36 would usually require 2 16”x24” or 24”x24” towels)… this will prevent any damage you might do by dragging the towels across the paint to dry.

2. Once the entire car is dried as mentioned above, use a new microfiber towel, preferably another waffle drying towel, to LIGHTLY wipe off any access water.
3. OR, instead of step 2, do what I prefer on maintenance washes (maintenance being washes when there is no polishing afterward; if I’m polishing after, I could honestly care less about drying very carefully, since I know anything that I might put in the paint will come out with the lightest of polishes)… use a quick detailer to spray the car in sections and wipe down, once the car is blot-dried that is. This way you have some lube and aren’t wiping almost dry paint and you’re also cleaning the paint a bit with the quick detailer.

OR

1. If you’re drying after using a clay bar, you would simply do step 3 above, meaning you would dry the car and get rid of any leftover clay bar and clay lube residue in one step by using a quick detailer and some micro fiber towels to wipe down the car.
2/4. Once the paint is done, you can wipe down the door jambs, trunk jambs, etc. (basically any crevice where water might sit after a wash). Car is now ready for polishing or sealing.


Polishing

Polishing is the most important part of a detail. You can clay a car then wax it, or you can just wax it, and it will look better and feel better than what you started with, but it isn’t until you’ve properly polished the paint (usually only possible by Rotary machine) that the real gloss, clarity and swirl-free finish comes out. Polishing will mechanically remove paint in order to correct defects such as swirl marks. After a proper polishing a sealant and/or wax is a must to protect the finish. Polishing process is as follows:

By hand:
I can safely say that very little can be accomplished by hand, and while not very efficient, even a $20-30 orbital buffer/polisher from a local car parts store will do a MUCH better job than by hand. This is due to the simple logic that your hand can only move so fast and apply only so much pressure. Plus you’re going to feel numb for a week if you try and polish an entire car by hand. What IS effective by hand is the use of all-in-one polishes (such as Klasse All-In-One) to chemically (as opposed to mechanically, by machine) remove defects such as some water spots, oxidation, etc. Also, a must by hand is the polishing of crevices on the car that are otherwise simply impossible to polish by machine… such places/parts include underneath most door handles, emblems, Etc. Process by hand is simple:

1. Choose a polish that will have enough cutting power to actually do something by hand.

2. Apply a dime or smaller sized bead of this polish to a foam applicator pad, or even a small 3” machine polishing pad (this is what I use for those tight areas)

3. Spread the product onto the surface where you intend to polish, then simply go at it as fast as you can and almost as hard as you can, wiping in circular motions but moving up and down, left and right.

I’m no expert on hand polishing, so above steps are what I use for small areas and what I’ve used a long time ago on a few panels done by hand. It’s been very effective for the small areas, but tiring even then.

By machine:
As stated above, this is the detailing step where you should strictly follow the rule “least aggressive method first”. If you go with a pad/polish and/or machine that’s too aggressive, you’ll only make more work for yourself and possibly even damage the paint (usually with a rotary buffer). That said, there are two buffers that are very popular… a rotary machine, which takes a lot of skill and experience to properly use, but is definitely not an impossible task to accomplish, and a random orbital machine,which is VERY safe for anyone with any logical thinking, yet it can do great correction work when done properly. There are many videos online (I’ll post links when I get a chance) that show proper movement, polish breakdown, etc. etc. with different machines. Since many detailers have different opinions, and many manufacturers have their own data and opinions about how polishes will work, how long to work it in, etc., I won’t go into detail about that. One thing to note is that you will always work in a polish longer with a random orbital machine than a rotary, which creates heat and breaks down polishes much faster… this is why some, usually more aggressive polishes require a rotary to work properly, and are limited with a random orbital.

1. As stated above, choose a pad and polish combo that’s least aggressive (basically a finishing polish with a finishing pad) and move up if necessary.

2a. Apply an X of product across the pad… use small (1/8”) lines for this as you don’t want too much product on the pad, then spread the product over a small work area (20”x20” or so).

2b. (Usually, if not always, done with rotary polishers) Apply a line of product to the paint then pick it up with a pad… this takes skill and one should first learn step 2a…. both work the same way, so they’re simply different preferences of different detailers (I use 2a 99.9% of the time just because I became more comfortable with that)

3. Start at a lower speed to more evenly spread the polish, then move up in speed to work in the polish.

4. After doing a section (I always recommend doing a few test spots, usually on hood and/or trunk, to find the best pad/polish combo(s) to properly correct the paint) wipe off the polish residue, then use a 50/50 isopropyl alcohol 70% and water mixture to clean off that section. This ensures no filling agents within the polish are hiding leftover swirl marks and/or other defects… (some polishes, usually called “glazes” have filling abilities, so while they do remove some swirl marks by removing paint mechanically, they tend to hide a lot of what’s left over, making the finish seem better than it actually is)

5. Keep doing step 4 until you’re happy with the results, whether it’s 1 step or 5 steps is up to you… the steps is also a topic in its own because you are in fact removing paint, so, especially with a rotary, you must limit yourself to how much polishing is to be done.

6. Once you’ve found a combo(s) that work, and the entire vehicle is polished, do a 50/50 iso/water wipedown to get the car ready for sealing.


Sealing

Sealing can be done with any quality wax or sealant on the market. This is a straight forward procedure and different manufacturers have different application/removal instructions, so I won’t go into detail here. Sealants usually last longer than carnauba waxes due to their chemical makeup, but the carnauba waxes are known to bring out the color better and make it look deeper, usually on dark-colored cars. This of course is very subjective, so any quality sealant or wax will do a great job. I usually do 2-3 layers of a sealant (Klasse High Gloss Sealant Glaze) within a month after the complete detail, then top that off every 4-6 weeks with a carnauba wax. Again, subjective topic so do what you like, but definitely use quality products:

1. Apply product (most sealants and waxes require very little product.. “less is more” when it comes to this)
2. Let product dry.
3. Wipe off residue with microfiber towels
4. Enjoy the finish!

As with everything else, whether washing, drying, applying wax, cleaning off residue, always make as little contact with the paint as possible, and always make that contact as light as possible.


Maintaining

Maintenance isn’t really a part of a complete detail per say, since there’s nothing to do after sealing of the paint is done. Maintenance refers to proper washing, drying and waxing techniques to use after the paint is corrected and you have a great base to begin maintenance work.

1. Washing should be done every 4-15 days, depending on driving patterns, how dirty car gets, etc. etc. I always recommend weekly washes for any car that’s not a “garage queen” or show car, and even more often if car gets dirty within a few days.

2. Sealant and/or wax should be applied every 4-8 weeks to ensure the paint finish is protected from the elements as much as possible (sealant or wax tend to make harder for water spots to occur, for bird sh*t to do damage to the paint, etc. etc.)

3. Claying should be done on an “as needed basis” but I always recommend it be done at least 2-3 times a year.

4. A complete detail, including all steps above (claying, polishing, etc.) should be done at least twice a year, to ensure you get rid of any light swirl marks the appeared, instead of waiting a couple years again and having to do a more aggressive polishing.

5. Lastly, quick detailers are great to remove dust every day or two that might accumulate on the paint, even if it just sits in the garage, but I always wait until the weekly wash as I don’t want to risk swirling the paint doing anything else.

Some important stuff:
Main thing to remember… TOUCH THE PAINT AS LITTLE AS POSSIBLE!
Use microfiber towels on all painted surfaces.

Hope this is helpful and feel free to PM me with any questions whatsoever.

Very Nice Product

The Zymol I am talking about comes in a plastic round bottle,relatively thick cream,but flows quite well and it's a light blue mixture... if that is the Zymol you are talking about I agree the incredible shine it gives my ride is amazing,very deep rich shine,throw a clean rag anywhere on the hood and expect it to just slide off! LOL
Best part is I find it lasts a good month,even after repeated washings.I usually wax during spring,summer, fall and I use a 10" orbital with a thick soft real lamb's wool bonnet to bring out the deep shine,doing light passes without excess pressure. I get no swirls just a really good deep shine.

Here's a friends Diablo 6.0 and TVR Sagaris getting detailed

Diablo Detailer.ie Portfolio
Sagaris Detailer.ie Portfolio

No Tha Zymol that i use is over $2000.00 called Vintage

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Hey Steve06 I just checked out that Sagaris portfolio... you do excellent work, specifically what you did with that flip paint job.
The car itself is a jewel of a machine other than the exhaust section cutting into the outer bumper,is that a factory setup? or a chop?
Pretty incredible results you brought out on that ride,wish you were based in Toronto!
How long did the process take you to complete? The hood HAD to be a real challenge with the side scallops to use a polisher on, but you managed it just fine, honestly sir, you do exquisite work.
Those pictures should have been shot in high definition to fully show the changes you brought on to that paint.
Very impressive, I hope that this generates some business for you on the forums,your workmanship speaks volumes.
Good luck!

Haha, I didn't detail them. The cars belong to a friend and she got the guy to detail them for her. He's an excellent detailer though, the process took him 2 days.

results we're great