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I would have never fitted back a flywheel below specs or limits. Just imagine removing engine/trans the 2nd time again because of you being a "cheapo". In my opinion "all engine out work" is to be at the highest standards!
Doing the job right 1st time etc... Just my 2 cents!
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Cheers, Bjoern |
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The pressure plate would still have the same force, it would take more distance on the throwout bearing to accomplish this. You could shim the throwout bearing, or get a hammer out and beat the floor board in to get this working. Great repairs for a Lambo. Many moons ago my Dad had a friend that shaved his flywheel down to lighten it in a 55 Chevy. It exploded and went through the bell housing, floor board and then the dash before stopping!
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Quote:
You calling me a cheapo? LOL! I AM CHEAPO! That is why I did it myself..and saved myself over $7K. Have you taken an engine out a diablop before..have you even seen the flywheel before? Or are you the guy that goes to the dealership and pulls out the check book and becomes "instant" mechanic with all your first hand knowledge. Just being ornery! LOL! Not sure if there is a difference between a DIYer and a cheapo...but not looking for responses on people who just don't write out checks. Nothing wrong with that...but as early cat knows me...I want to learn why and how? If you guys look at the flywheel where the bolts...bolt up the the engine, you will see that the amount of metal verses what is on the surface where the clutch touches is alot less...so not I don't think the shatter effect is going to be the issue...I am trying to understand what the reason is behind lambo with certain specs. My flywheel is fine...but wondering why they say what they say.
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1992 Lamborghini Diablo 1992 Ferrari 512TR Last edited by silvergts1998 : 11-23-2006 at 01:39 PM. |
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I have heard a few stories about grenading flywheels in a few different cars (mostly american). It is always a scary thought. How far past spec do you need to go? If the surface of the mounting points of the pressure plate are also machined, then the clamping power of the clutch would remain the same.
I think there are tests that can be done at a machine shop to look for any cracks/weakspots. I am just not sure how comfortable I would be. Have you tried to contact any specialty/performance clutch manufacturers about this? They probably have a better insight on what would really be safe. You are not a cheap-ass Adam! I agree with you. Why pay $200 an hour if you have the capacity and some time to do it yourself? I take pride in doing my own work to my cars. |
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I am going to step in here. I do not want to see name calling and mud slinging.
He wasn't saying that you are "Cheapo" because you do not take it to the dealer. He is saying that time is money, if you know that something is below spec and you knowingly put it back in to save a dollar that would equal "Cheapo" in his opinion. Please refrain from making broad statements that could offend other members. With that being said, let's get back to the cars.... |
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