Terry, You can just replace the master link. However I would go with new chains considering the devestation due to a broken chain, you will sleep better at night knowing that they are new.

Sincerely Vic

PS: My T/O Bearing looked just like yours, I have come up with a few thoughts on why they fail like they do.

Hi Vic, yes we are replacing the chains while we are here. Let me know any thoughts on this bearing problem, looks like they should be made out of Titanium !!

The thoughts I have on these failures are as follows:

1) As the clutch starts to wear the clutch pedal needs to be adjusted on a timely basis, if this is not done as such the dogs on the clutch fork will start slowly developing a wear spot on the T/O bearing collar. This in turn will develop into a stress point where the fatigue will eventually cause it to fail.

Solution keep clutch adjusted properly.

2) If the car sits for extended periods of time especially in damp conditions, the clutch disc will eventually form a temporary bond with the flywheel and pressure plate. I have heard stories of owners that leave thier cars sit for years at a time and then go to start them only to find that the car will not shift into gear because the clutch is stuck to the flywheel. In this case the car can be started out of gear, allowed to warm up, then shut off put into first gear started and driven carefully around the block while working the clutch pedal slowly trying to break the temporary bond of these items. The downfall of this is it takes considerably more pedal force to try and release the pressure plate because it is bonded to the clutch which is in turn bonded to the flywheel. This extra pressure can fatigue the T/O bearing resulting in premature failure.

Solution don't let your car sit.

In summary I would say the T/O bearing housing especially in the collar area should either be made thicker, receive some type of heat treating or be made out of a stronger alloy as you have mention. I have given this alot of thought and these are the only reasons I can come up with on why these break like they do, I would however be interested in other opinions on the matter.

Sincerely Vic

Vic, I think you are right and perhaps I am guilty of Item 1, I will keep the clutch adjusted properly this time as I do not want this happening again.

Raymond, heads are going back on now.

The workshop manual gives a head bolt figure of 8.8 Kg-Meter. This equates to 63 lbs feet or 83.5 NM. You said you tightened yours up to 100 Nm or 71.5 lbs ft. Is that not much too high ?

I asked Valentino for the torque of the QV heads and he said 100Nm...

100Nm is quite normal for many cars, also the F-cars.

__________________
RaymondQV
Countach QV Ex-Mimran #GLA12997, Urraco P300 #20530 sold in August 2008, Jalpa #FLA12203 sold in May 2006
www.countach.ch
www.jalpa.ch

When Frank Sinatra got his Miura S in 1970, he said: “If you wanna be someone, buy Ferrari - If you are someone, you own a Lamborghini”.

maybe the LP 5000S is lower, we will go with the workshop manual.
Thanks

After a long wait she is ready to go back in

Will you install the Alternator and AC before putting it back into the car?

We did, it's easier to install these units outside than in the car...

__________________
RaymondQV
Countach QV Ex-Mimran #GLA12997, Urraco P300 #20530 sold in August 2008, Jalpa #FLA12203 sold in May 2006
www.countach.ch
www.jalpa.ch

When Frank Sinatra got his Miura S in 1970, he said: “If you wanna be someone, buy Ferrari - If you are someone, you own a Lamborghini”.

looks great, terry
i love the yellow painted lambo badge: so vintage