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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2005, 02:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by raymond
because this is only possible on much younger cars...

I can at least remove a part of the wall on my QV and I belive it's not much younger than yours. The removable part is trapezoidal. There are two bolts on top of the wall securing it. The carpet on the wall inside the luggage compartment is also fitted with velcro for easy removal. Just for your information. Keep the pics coming.
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 10-08-2005, 03:10 PM
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It actually works quite well as a saftey barrier, if it was not there it would be possible for the engine to hit the rear of the car from the inside, much more expensive.

I now have a rotton cold but hopefully steam cleaning the engine bay tomorrow and some pics of the damage to the clutch actuating fork.

The heads have also been removed now.
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 10-10-2005, 03:44 AM
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You can see the problem, when the release fork broke, so did the clutch release bearing.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2005, 09:14 AM
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Default Some tech info needed.

Does anyone have the following info :

Headbolt torque settings and order.
Valve clearances
Valve timing
Ignition timing.

Oh I wish they made a manual for these car's

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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2005, 11:16 AM
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Headbolts 100Nm
Order I don't know exactly, we tightened them from middle to out begun at 60Nm and headed on over some hours to 100.
Valve clearance: inlet 0,25, exhaust 0,50
valve timing is in the owner manual
ignition timing: 13 degrees advance at idle
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Countach QV Ex-Mimran #GLA12997, Urraco P300 #20530 sold in August 2008, Jalpa #FLA12203 sold in May 2006
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When Frank Sinatra got his Miura S in 1970, he said: “If you wanna be someone, buy Ferrari - If you are someone, you own a Lamborghini”.
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 10-17-2005, 11:29 AM
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As usual Raymond, THANKS
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2005, 01:59 AM
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Raymond, did you change your timing chain. I am told that the one you have to split quite often fails if it used again after joining.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2005, 02:20 AM
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You don't need to split the chains, if you loose the tensioners you should be able to take it away when the cams are loose.
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2005, 03:17 AM
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Ok Raymond, my mechanic split the chai ! so we are replacing both but they are not too expensive.
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 10-25-2005, 08:14 AM
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Hmmm... Terry I'd consider that cutting the cam chains instead of releasing the tensioners by a mechanic working on a Countach a big red flag - careful buddy - you'll never know it's assembled correctly until you get it back in. Best of luck.

Alex
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