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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 04-20-2008, 07:33 PM
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Took the headers off today and a valve fell out in pieces.No. 7 intake valve is toast.Top of the piston is damaged as seen through the intake port.The spark plug will not come out so i wont force it.I'm hoping the head is ok but probably not.Took off the pan and the bottom end looks good.{I thought that a rod cap had come loose cause it was knocking.It was still running nice then it made a rude clanging sound and i shut it off.}Have not taken the heads off yet.a little concerned about losing the cam timing.how do you set it?I need diagrams.Another thing;should i be thinking about putting in a clutch.It was working fine but now would be a better time than any .How many km's do these things last?Car has 54,600 km on it...Anyhow,I really appreciate the help but i have a long way to go yet and the hard part is coming up.Any thoughts are appreciated ,thanks..
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Old 04-22-2008, 07:20 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gottajalpa84 View Post
Took the headers off today and a valve fell out in pieces.No. 7 intake valve is toast.Top of the piston is damaged as seen through the intake port.The spark plug will not come out so i wont force it.I'm hoping the head is ok but probably not.Took off the pan and the bottom end looks good.{I thought that a rod cap had come loose cause it was knocking.It was still running nice then it made a rude clanging sound and i shut it off.}Have not taken the heads off yet.a little concerned about losing the cam timing.how do you set it?I need diagrams.Another thing;should i be thinking about putting in a clutch.It was working fine but now would be a better time than any .How many km's do these things last?Car has 54,600 km on it...Anyhow,I really appreciate the help but i have a long way to go yet and the hard part is coming up.Any thoughts are appreciated ,thanks..
The cams should be marked and will need to be degreed in using a degreeing wheel. At this point you have far more concerns with the heads and cylinder liners than cam timing. My advise is to find a very good cylinder head shop, replace all of the sodium filled valves with satinless steel and fix any damages to the heads themselves. If you do not feel confident in doing these repairs yourself find someone who can and let them do the job.

Best of luck, Sincerely Vic
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Old 04-22-2008, 02:31 PM
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Why do you need to degree the cam(s), if you don't take the gear off the cam (assuming it's adjustable on the Jalpa), but still line the marks up?

(There is a book on the Urracco engine that works on the Jalpa @ books4cars.com, not the best but the only one I know of).
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Old 04-22-2008, 06:17 PM
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Got the head off, Both valves are broken off. the piston is gouged. the sleeve appears to have survived. i believe the head is salvageable. the cam timing dowel is snapped in half. Can i assume that the exhaust valve failed on its own and caused all the other damage. (the exhaust valve break is burnt and covered in soot while the intake valve break is clean) Anybody have a piston laying around? Should I get better pistons ,Ive heard they have a connecting rod flaw.?
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Old 04-23-2008, 12:18 PM
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Gonna take the heads into the shop today, hopefully shes still useable.does anyone know where I can get the stainless steel valves for it?
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:31 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gottajalpa84 View Post
Gonna take the heads into the shop today, hopefully shes still useable.does anyone know where I can get the stainless steel valves for it?
Evan's Automotive has a set of stainless valves and seats in stock and are competitive on pistons and gaskets.

George Evans 614-471-7535

They are the shop that rebuilt me Jalpa over the winter.

Hope this helps
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:36 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gottajalpa84 View Post
Can i assume that the exhaust valve failed on its own and caused all the other damage. (the exhaust valve break is burnt and covered in soot while the intake valve break is clean) Anybody have a piston laying around? Should I get better pistons ,Ive heard they have a connecting rod flaw.?
Yes, thats a good assumption. The sodium filled valves are prone to breaking replace them with stainless steel valves. Call George @ Evans Automotive (614) 471-7535 Columbus Ohio he should be able to help you out. Sincerely Vic
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:40 PM
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[I'm hoping the head is ok but probably not.]


Not to sound like I'm promoting just Evan's but he's the only one I have experience with. He can repair the damaged head if it's not too far gone. He had to get a journal welded and machined on mine.

Good-luck
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Old 04-23-2008, 02:42 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EarlyCat View Post
Why do you need to degree the cam(s), if you don't take the gear off the cam (assuming it's adjustable on the Jalpa), but still line the marks up?

(There is a book on the Urracco engine that works on the Jalpa @ books4cars.com, not the best but the only one I know of).
Things change, chains stretch and should be replaced especially when you break a couple valves and destroy a piston. Not the best recomendation to re-use old timing chains when you can buy new ones for probably less than $200 a pair. Plus the mark is just a scribe on the cam journal and cap. You really need a degree wheel and dial indicator to set the cams up right. Sincerely Vic
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Old 04-23-2008, 05:50 PM
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bad news...I believe i found the actual source of the problem.The oil pump that is driven by the cam (above the bell housing) "seized" and sheared off the keyway between it and the cam.That is what likely caused the timing to screw up and in turn allowed the exhaust valves on the opposite head to hit the pistons..(all 4 on the one head were making contact with pistons but it appears 3 are ok but may be bent.)I am now looking for a new oil pump and key.Is this oil pump strictly for cooling the oil? cause i looked at the oil pressure and it was normal befor i shut er down.
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