Jalpa engine rebuild - Page 7

Jalpa_Aus · #61 (**permalink**) 07-27-2008, 06:51 AM

Ross,
Thanks for the offer, small possibility I will be comeing over in the next year or two so will have to try and catch up so I can see your Jalpa :-). Couple of friends have moved over your way for work. How is your Jalpa running did you mange to get the carbies sorted out?
Mike

**Ross** · #62 (**permalink**) 07-28-2008, 07:47 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jalpa_Aus

Ross,
How is your Jalpa running did you mange to get the carbies sorted out?
Mike

I thought so, Mike, but Karen and I drove it to visit with the original owners yesterday and one of my cylinders fouled out after a fill up. Guess I'll sort that out.

Jalpa_Aus · #63 (**permalink**) 07-30-2008, 01:48 AM

Ross,
Sorry to hear you are still having issues with the carbs. I went and bought one of the digital manometers to use for balancing up the carbies. I have included this link Browser Warning(Not sure why this browser warning is here just do a google search for "manometer 8230") its someone’s recommendation on the unit and its usefulness :-). I had originally bought the "motometer synchroniser" as in fig 26 of the Jalpa owners manual. but had no end of issues (maybe due to the low compression on the rear set of cylinders) trying to sync the carbs. NOTE all sync manuals say that you should not have any cylinders that are more than 5% lower on compression. The unit will connect directly to the vacuum outlet at the bass of each carbie and offers differential pressures if you have the two outlets connected. I will try and post some pictures of this process when I get up to it, still clear coating the engine bay aluminium panels with the POR15 clear.

**Ross** · #64 (**permalink**) 08-01-2008, 02:08 PM

Hi Mike

Can you answer a question for a guy on my thread? Jalpa-euro-engine-update? He's looking for head torques.

Thanks

Jalpa_Aus · #65 (**permalink**) 08-02-2008, 07:39 AM

Ross,
George gave me the following details. 55 ft lbs. which is 74.6NM MUST ME DONE IN 3 STEPS THEN REDONE 2 TIMES OVER 2 DAYS.
Mike

THECARREAPER · #66 (**permalink**) 08-08-2008, 03:00 PM

nice to read of your progress.

Jalpa_Aus · #67 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 05:55 AM

Been busy lateley so haven't had time to post. I thought it would be a good idea to clean up the engine bay while I had the engine out. I included the first picture so you can see what it looked like to start with. I actually got a nylon brush for the drill and cleaned up the front and rear firewalls (aluminum panels) I then applied a couple of coats of the POR15 clear coat. Unforunately I don't have any pictures of this, In the second and third pictures. I have already taped up the aluminum panels and am preparing the rest of the engine bay for a coat of POR15 black.
The forth picture is after I have applied a couple of coats of POR15 black.
The last pictuture if after I have finished, you can see the clear coat on the front firewall, I didn't want to regas the AC as it was working which is why I have it suspended.
Only problem with the POR15 paint is that it is NOT UV proof. It does fade very quickly if left in direct sunlight, which is why it should be OK in the engine bay :-)

Jalpa_Aus · #68 (**permalink**) 09-10-2008, 06:23 AM

Time to clean up the wheel archs and shockie towers, best to do while the suspension is out otherwise you end up with the spray all over those parts as well :-)
The first picture shows the wheel arch prior to spraying the bitumen. I just did a basic clean up brushing out all the sand from all he corners etc.
The 2nd picture is after I have given the first coat of the bitumen spray, as it is not a paint you don't have to be that carful with the spraying, it can be easily wiped away if you get it on something you shouldn't, I just put the paper up to protect the engine mainly.
In the last picture you can see the finished product I also put the can of spray that I used, certainly helps to freshen up the wheel arches.

You may notice the engine is already in, I will put that process in my next post, the posts are a little out of order

Jalpa_Aus · #69 (**permalink**) 09-16-2008, 09:09 AM

Here is the process I used to put the engine back in. In the first picture I used broom sticks to roll the engine forward and backward to avoid damaging the fresh paint on the engine chasis, you just keep moving the last one to the front when you roll in from lef to right. This worked quite well.
In the second picture I have tied the ropes around the bumper supports in the boot after removing the boot lid, (thanks to Laust for this suggestion).
In the third picture you can see that the car has been lifted high enough to slide the engine under, this bit was a little harder, there was three of use to push the engine along the broom sticks (This worked well no damage to the paint on the chasis or the sump of the engine

), you can also see that we needed to have the hoist on an angle so that we could get he engine into position. We then decided that it would be best to jack the engine up so that it would give us some clearance to screw the engine chasis bolts back in, we did this using two jacks and eventually slide the tyre under the engine. as we lowered the car back down we were able to push the car back and forward by adjusting the chocks around the front wheels and then pushing the car any sideways movement could be achieved by pushine the hoist oneway or the other.
Picture 4 shows the engine back in place with all the enogine mounts done back up, we have supported the car by the jacks stands so that we can contiune with the suspension installation.

**Ross** · #70 (**permalink**) 09-16-2008, 10:44 AM

Look at you go!!! You'll be on the road in no time.

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