Jalpa engine rebuild - Page 3

THECARREAPER · #21 (**permalink**) 03-17-2008, 07:13 PM

i very much appreciate you taking the time to share this restoration in this manner.

Jalpa_Aus · #22 (**permalink**) 03-19-2008, 06:09 PM

THECARREAPER, no problems it helps to keep things moving :-) I have gained a lot by others doing similar when working on their cars, so thought I would do my bit.
I got the water pump shaft back from the engineering shop and this is what it looks like (Picture 1) they advised that they had "sleeved" the shaft rather than welding and machineing down. I then put the aluminum housing back on and secured with the 16mm sir clip I forgot to take a picture of that. the next part to go on was the new seal(Picture 2) this is the one that would have been over the corroded part of the shaft, I used the drift gently to make sure it was seated correctly.
Picture 3 shows the press fit steel housing and the asociated spring loaded seal being tapped back in using a 1 1/4 inch socket, note you can take the spring loaded seal out to just tap in the steel housing if needed mine went in pretty easy (Note this was the part that was removed with the screw driver in one of the earlier posts)
My picture records are NOT as good as I thought, I think I have one washer that needs to go in next but I can't identify the orientation of the washer, it has a recessed groove on one side, I will do some more investigation before I complete, the exploded parts digram indicates the part but not the orientation, by a process of elimination I think I can work out which way it goes will get some more photos.

Jalpa_Aus · #23 (**permalink**) 03-26-2008, 05:34 AM

Carrying on from the previous post, picture 1 shows the washer I am talking about you can see the groove in the middle of the washer, once I took the top of the pump off again it became pretty clear where the part goes, this can be seen in picture 2 the washer is turned upside down and it fits on top of the seal. Picture 3 shows the washer in place NOTE the seal is spring loaded and you need to press it down to get the washer down and then insert the key. Picture 4 shows the parts back together again. I need to source 2 orings for the top and bottom grooves, middle groove remains clear.

Jalpa_Aus · #24 (**permalink**) 03-26-2008, 05:56 AM

Carrying on from the previous post, you need to make sure you order all the parts. I had initially ordered the parts making the assumption that all the water pump parts were on that page, as indicated on picture 1 I ordered parts 20, 25, 26, 34, 44 and 45 basically anything that had seal or bearing in its description. What I didn't realise was that there are two orings requires for the two grooves in the last picture of the previous post that come from the crankcase parts page. The picture only shows 1 oring but the description page advises that 2 need to be ordered, so I am currently waiting for these parts to arrive to complete the water pump.

**Ross** · #25 (**permalink**) 03-26-2008, 06:31 AM

These threads are so good that someone with alot of time on their hands could write a very good manual on how to keep these beasts running! Good thread Mate.

Jalpa_Aus · #26 (**permalink**) 04-01-2008, 07:23 AM

Thanks Ross.

I have the first problem today, to date everything on the engine has been coming up good. The engine shop were honing the cylider bores and they were looking Ok, as in the First picture. As mentioned in the first picture the cylinder liners are floating that is they move around quite easily. This is why a block plate MUST be fitted prior to doing any honing or boring of the cylinder bores. The block plate that the engine shop used is in picture 2. The problem can be seen in this picture in the third cylinder on the top bank. It appears as if water has been resting in this piston and has corroded the bore and the honing was unable to remove it. The engine shop said that it possibly would not effect the running of the engine and when I ran my finger over it you could not feel any variation, he advised that it could possibly allow some oil to get past and could possibly smoke, needless to say I will be ordering a new cylinder liner. I have given a closeup of the damaged cylinder bore in the third picture. Investigating where the water possible came from, the cylinder heads have pressure tested Ok still looking. Will probalby take another month to get the cylinder liner so that will slow things up again

Plenty of other things to keep me busy though

Jalpa_Aus · #27 (**permalink**) 04-09-2008, 06:25 AM

Finaly got the orings I was talking about :-) as in the first picture you can see the first one in place and the second one about to go on.
In the second picture you can see the bearing that I have just tapped in using a suitably sized socket. I then used a socket to tap in the seal.
Picture 3 shows the water pump shaft being inserted. This must be done before the distributor drive shaft goes in. Also it may be easier to put the woodruff key in before the shaft goes in. The seal that was put in in picture 2 makes it difficult to insert later (but probably not impossible). You also need to be careful when you push the shaft through the roller bearing you can dislodge the roller bearings if you are not careful. Make sure the shaft is FULLY inserted, look through the retaining bolt hole and make sure you can see the slot, these are marked in the picture. (The other little bolt in the picture is the retaing bolt for the lower distributor shaft bearing) I have included one of the dismantleing pictures (picture4) to show you the retaining bolt.
Picture 5 shows the bottom distributor drive shaft bearing going in, it is a good idea to keep good records of how you dismantle things, it is not clear in this photo but the sirclip that retains the bearing has a 2mm gap. The two washers in the picture are what take up the slack, this is how it was when it came out so that is how I am putting it back in.
Off on fishing holiday next week, so will have some time to get some more posts ready :-)

gottajalpa84 · #28 (**permalink**) 04-11-2008, 03:20 PM

Can you remove the engine out the top or do you have to lift the car?

raymond · #29 (**permalink**) 04-12-2008, 05:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gottajalpa84

Can you remove the engine out the top or do you have to lift the car?

No, that's not possible because you cannot pull the engine from the engine subframe upwards.
Anyway that makes no sense since lowering the engine is a 3-4h job only.

Lamborghini Jalpa Engine Mount Fix

Jalpa_Aus · #30 (**permalink**) 04-19-2008, 11:37 PM

gottajalpa84,
As Raymond has said the engine can only come out the bottom, The engine, gearbox, diferential, engine chasis, suspension and exhaust all come out as one unit as in the picture. If you are lucky enough to have a car hoist you can lift the car straight up which enables you to leave the shock absorbers on as well, as I am lifting only the rear of the car with a crane and pivoting on the front wheels, I had to remove the rear shock absorbers first (not a difficult job) if using this options(crane) as mentioned by Laust you must either remove the front spoiler or put the front of the car on blocks so as to avoid damaging thefront spoiler. I chose to remove the front spolier to be on the safe side

Mike

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)