Jalpa engine rebuild - Page 2

Jalpa_Aus · #11 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008, 03:42 AM

I needed to strip all the external components off the engine in preparation for taking it down to the engine rebuild shop.
Picture 1 is the engine just after removal from the car with all the parts prior to strip down.
Picture 2 is the engine once the carburators have been removed.
Picture 3 is a picture once the intake manifolds have been removed,you can see the inlet valves down the bottom.
Picture 4 is once I have removed the water pump
Picture 5 is removing the exhaust system, it is possible to remove the front side with no problems but the rear side can NOT be removed in the car or even at this stage. You can see that there is NOT enought room to get the exhaust so slide off the bolts without hitting the engine chasis. I had to undo the engine mounts then slide the engine up and forward to get it out of the engine chasis I also had to remove the oil pressure switch and the oil drain down connector on the other side of the engine(from the oil cooler) to get the engine chasis off. It makes more sense when you do it but not as easy as it sounds, persiverance pays off :-) from memory I removed the exhaust half way through the engine chasis removal to get it out the way.
I have now sent the engine down to be reconditioned, I expect it will be 3 Months before its back based on the time it takes to order parts. Ross put me onto George Evans who has been very helpful in supplying parts which he has most in stock and also giving advise on what to do when I have had some problems, I highly recommend him. I am sure most of you would have seen Ross's engine rebuild and how impresive that was :-)
Time for me to clean up the things that are left. I have the water pump that I will rebuild, the engine chasis needs to be stripped and repainted, engine bay cleaned up, radiator serviced etc.

**Ross** · #12 (**permalink**) 02-20-2008, 06:42 AM

Good start Jalpa-Aus!

Jalpa_Aus · #13 (**permalink**) 03-03-2008, 04:43 AM

Time to get onto the chasis, picture one shows the wire brushing of the engine chasis used the little brush to clean out all the little tubes.
The second picture shows the condition of the swing arm bush once I pulled the arm off, you can see how the rubber has perished. I have pressed the bush out as in picture 3 using a brass fitting from the plumbing department at the local hardware store it was the perfect size to support the swing arm and allow the bush to push through the centre. I have sent the bush off to be re filled with Poly Urethane, I will get it back much quicker and it will probably last longer than the rubber bushes.
The last picture shows the chasis once I have painted it with 3 coats of chasis black POR 15 paint, giving it a sand with 400 grit paper between coats to help key the paint in. Thats it for this long weekend :-)

Jalpa_Aus · #14 (**permalink**) 03-05-2008, 05:17 AM

I got the bushes back today (First picture) they have been refilled with poly urethane cost approx $30US each.
Second picture is me pressing the bush back into the swingarm.
Last picture is the swing arm back on the chasis

jalpa_mike · #15 (**permalink**) 03-05-2008, 07:20 AM

Great Post! Thanks for all the details! POR-15 is great isn't it? I used it on my 1980 Maserati 4Porte when I did work on it.

One quick question for you. Did you replace the rubber bushings on the Motor Mounts too? Did you buy them new? Or, did you find an after market version? I'd love to replace mine, but just can't bring myself to spend $80.00+ each for them, and you need a total of 8 of them! (They are item #7 on this drawing):

Jalpa_Aus · #16 (**permalink**) 03-08-2008, 06:10 AM

Jalpa_Mike, I bought 4 new engine mounts, I either got them from George Evans or Lambostuff.com I can't remember which one. They come in pairs though so you only need to buy 4 and not the 8 that are pictured in the diagram. The cars are at least 20 years old now and the rubber does perish so good idea to get new ones (or replacement if you can find one) mine were looking pretty bad, I have also got the new enigne mounts from Raymond (the metal brackets).

Jalpa_Aus · #17 (**permalink**) 03-09-2008, 07:58 AM

Time to get onto the water pump, I had coolant leaking from the small hole at the back of the water pump that is there to stop the coolant from getting into the oil. I ordered the bearings, seals and gaskets from lambostuff.com got it all for under $100US. Here is how I got it apart after removing form the engine.
Picture 1 the removal of the outlet pipe once the sirclip had been removed, I used at set of pointy nose pliers as my sirclip pliers were not lare enough to get it out, the pipe came out easily after the clip was removed.
Once the pipe is removed you need to remove the two nuts that are located on the drive cog at the other end as in Picture 2 depending on which nut lets go first you may need to use an impact socket and rattle gun to get it off (as I did)
Next remove the three nuts that mount the distributor and then remove the distributor drive shaft as in Picture 3
Next you need to remove the bolt on the side of the water pump that retains the shaft. It is labeled in picture 4
Picture 5 shows the shaft coming out, as long as you have removed the two nuts at the other end it should slide out easily. I have marked the key for the bolt on the side and also the two orings that will be replaced, it did appear as if coolant had been getting passed the first Oring, will post more once I have all the components off the shaft

THECARREAPER · #18 (**permalink**) 03-11-2008, 04:04 AM

great pics!

Jalpa_Aus · #19 (**permalink**) 03-14-2008, 06:32 AM

Thanks CARREAPER
Trying to get to the second bearing inside the aluminium housing on the end of the shaft was a bit challenging, until you know how. My initial thoughts was to try and press it off as I could see the sirclip on the under side of the unit but that didn't work, as you can see from the first picture there is no obvious way to get the steel plate out, there may be a special tool you can use for there are three holes in the middle groove of the aluminum housing but I was unable to get any of the standard screw drivers to apply any force to push it out, so as in the second picture and the fact that I had new parts to replace all these I used a screw driver to lever the edge up as I levered around it eventyually came loose, probably not the best way but it did work. Under this there was another seal as in picture 3. I used a hook to go in through the small side and pull the seal out, this seal came away easily and possibly the seal responsible for the leaking (My next post will have more on this)
As in picture 4 I finally got down to the sir clip that was holding everything together, I used a set of long nose sir clip pliers to get it out. In picture 5 I put it back in the press to push the shaft out.

Jalpa_Aus · #20 (**permalink**) 03-14-2008, 07:00 AM

The first picture shows the removal of the sir sir clip that retains the bearing, this is the one hidden by the distributor shaft drive cog. The second picture shows the parts once they have been separated there are a couple more bearings not in this picture the one that is the bearing for the bottom of the distributor shaft drive I haven't got any pictures but it is easy to get out and there are two washes on the bottom side to help with spacing, the third picture shows the socket I used to press the bearing out it was a 1" sidchrome socket 1/2 inch drive with two extension attached, the socket was 33.49mm external diameter it needs to be that size so that it presses on the outside edge of the bearing without interfering with the aluminum housing. The Fourth picture shows the water pump in the press ready to pres the belt drive cog end bearing out.
The last picture shows the shaft once I had got all the parts off as you can see the shaft was very pitted, if the seal re seats on the good section indicated by the green arrow then I could probably get away with it as is but if the seal mounts where the red arrow indicates then it is unlikely it would seal so I have sent the shaft off to an engineering shop to have it repaired, they said they would either weld more metal onto the shaft and then machine it back down or they would manufacture a sleeve for it, will show you the results when it gets back.

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)