Jalpa engine rebuild - Page 8

Jalpa_Aus · #71 (**permalink**) 09-19-2008, 02:23 AM

Cheers Ross, unfortunately no time to work on car this weekend. I'll try and get the updates posted as soon as I can. I expect I should have the engine running in October some time, you always find things to do to slow the progress :-)

Jalpa_Aus · #72 (**permalink**) 10-08-2008, 08:33 AM

I thought it would be a good idea to get a few things re-coated prior to putting them back on the engine. The first picture contains all the parts I will have done in gold cadmium. The second picture has all the part that I will have re-chromed, you can see how bad the gear shift gate was looking. The last picture is of all the parts on there return. The pictures don't show how good the chroming actually is I was very happy with the results and all looks brand new now.
Now to put it all back together :-)

detour_racing · #73 (**permalink**) 10-08-2008, 09:33 AM

those look great!! I can't wait to see it back together.

Jalpa_Aus · #74 (**permalink**) 10-09-2008, 03:11 AM

Thanks detour_racing, I did put the reverse lever lockout back together but the photos just didn't do it any justice :-( so didn't bother posing them. I'm also working on the heater ducting up front of the as you are aware (thanks fo rthe photos) once I removed the relay panel and fuse block I did find one entry point into the foot well area, i think the 2nd once is covered by the brake booster assembly mounting bracket. I think I may have to do a bit of work modifying the ducting to get things to work, i will try and post some pictures of that as I get going, as allways not enough time.
Cheers

Jalpa_Aus · #75 (**permalink**) 10-23-2008, 08:54 AM

I edge ever closer :-). I have got the carbs, alternator, distributor, fuel rail and timing done. As my car has a 90amp alternator in the car which is not an original it actually has a longer timing belt in the car it is actually 3 teeth longer than the standard belt. Took me a while to work that one out, trying to source a new belt has also been difficult. It currently has the original one put back on, I have found belts that are close but nothing exactly correct, I will keep searching. As the belt is just driven off the cam shaft and only drives the alternator and water pump (which drives the distributor and timing) it will not be a show stopper if it brakes.
I am still waiting on the gear selector seals so I can't start the engine until they arrive as don't want to run the engine with no oil in the gearbox. Hoping the seals will arrive this week.

**Ross** · #76 (**permalink**) 10-25-2008, 01:55 PM

It's really looking good Jalpa_Aus!

Fill us in on the alternator if you have more details. The stock alternator is 55 amps (the way I understand it). And that means I either run the lights or the AC but not both.

Jalpa_Aus · #77 (**permalink**) 10-26-2008, 08:22 AM

Ross,
This alternator was fitted before I purchased the car, but here is what I know. These are the numbers I found on the alternator Bosch 120-469-363 and N1 34/90A. I then had a look at the bosch site and found this catalog http://www.bosch.com.au/content/lang...arters2000.pdf
Following on from Thecarreapers post (on one of Lynn's threads) and the mention of VW alternators I beilieve the one you could use is BX469864 and just change the pulley over for the one off your current alternator. NOTE my alternator has an extra bracket on it for support, it could also do with two extra washers so as not to put undew pressure on the aluminum mounting bracket, but certainly workable. I have included a couple of pictures so you can see how it fits. From memory the timing belt specified for the Jalpa 345L100 (I think) has 92 teeth. The belt required to fit with the different alternator has 95 teeth
Regards
Mike

Jalpa_Aus · #78 (**permalink**) 11-16-2008, 06:23 AM

Been busy for the last couple of weekends so no time to spend on the car, Finally got one free so I have now started on the front suspension, I have removed the front struts and sent them off to get the Koni inserts put in and get them powder coated black again. While they are off getting rebuilt its a good time to get the rest cleaned up.
If you are not aware there is a grease nipple for the speedo drive at the back of the hub. I have marked the location in the first picture. The grease nipple is more clear in picture 2 after I had removed and cleaned it up, I then gave it a coat of por15 clear as por 15 is resistant to brake fluid and most other fluids you will find in a car.
Picture 3 shows the swing arm, disk brake backing plate and the two sway bar mounting brackets once cleaned up and painted in por15.
Picture 4 shows the front hubs one after I had finished wire brushing it and the 2nd after first coat of por15
Picture 5 shows the front ATE brake caliper once cleaned up, the two cans of paint are in the back ground, one the heat proof undercoat and the 2nd the gold color. I will finish these off with a coat of por15 clear also for its chemical resistant properties.

Jalpa_Aus · #79 (**permalink**) 11-19-2008, 07:58 AM

As I am cleaning up the front of the car I thought I had better cleanup and paint the tie rods. To access the tie rods you need to go in via the front bonnet and undo the access panel as in Picture 1, you will probably have to remove the heater core and associated ducting to get access to this panel.
Picture 2 shows the access panel removed and reveils the two 22mm nuts that need to be undone. There is a locking mechanism that needs to be bent out to undo the nuts. These nuts were very tight, I was unable to get them off with a 1/2 inch socket set and the rattle gun I have also was unable to loosen the nuts. I had to use a 3/4 inch socket set with the associated breaker bar to get in loosened.
Picture 3 shows one tie rod removed and one to go you can see the retaining strap that has been bent out to allow the nuts to be undone.
picture 4 I took to show the orientation of the left hand tie rod, just to make sure I get it right when it goes back in.
I then wire brushed the two tie rods and checked the tie rod ends and bushs for condition, all looks good and there was no free play in the steering to start with. The last picture shows the tie rod once its been painted with the 1st coat of por15 paint.

**Ross** · #80 (**permalink**) 11-19-2008, 11:05 AM

Nice Jalpa_Aus

Did you have a bad rattle in the front end when you go over bumps?

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