Jalpa engine rebuild - Page 5

Jalpa_Aus · #41 (**permalink**) 06-16-2008, 09:09 AM

Managed to get back onto the CV joints this past weekend. The first picture is after I had wirebrushed and painted the drive shafts & CV joint housings in the POR 15 paint. I have placed the shaft in the vice and pushed on the first CV boot, I have read a number of sites that suggest you don't need to put the washer on as it can be difficult the get the sirclip on at a later stage, I trial fitted mine and in went on ok so I added it back on. (This joint is similar to the ones used on the early VW beetles so there is plenty of stuff on the net in regards assembly and disasembly ie CV Joint Maintenance)
If you do take the CV joint appart when you are cleaning the joint make sure you don't mix anything between the different CV joints (Do one at a time). Once the joint is off the shaft you are able to spin the centre around to remove the balls. As in Picture 2 you need to make sure that you align the large outer spacing with the small inner spacing, otherwise the joint wont work and it will go together in the wrong position, good idea to mark every thing as you take it off so it does go back together correctly.
In Picture 3 I filled the back of the CV joint with grease, need to keep a little for the other side and the rest goes in the boot.
In picture 4 I used the aluminum drift to tap the CV joint back onto the shaft.
In picture 5 I have put the sirclip back on. NOTE if you cannot get the sirclip to fit back on many sites suggest you can remove the bottom washer (Picture 1) which will give you some more clearance. Mine did fit back on Ok with the washer in place.

Jalpa_Aus · #42 (**permalink**) 06-16-2008, 09:45 AM

Once I had put the rest of the grease in the boot I pulled it up over the lip of the CV joint and applied the retaining strap as in Picture 6.
It is now time to put the spline back on, I cut out a new gasket from appropriate thick gasket paper, there is a recess this fits into on the other half, it will be obvious when it comes time to doing it, I also applied a good amount of grease to this side as in Picture 7. I also applied Hylomar gasket cement to this gasket.
Because of the dowels in picture 7 it may be neccessary to lightly tap the spline onto the dowels as in picture 8.
As in picture 9 the washers and allen key bolts were put back on and tightened down.
The last picture 10 it rewiring the allenkey bolts so that they don't rattle out.

Jalpa_Aus · #43 (**permalink**) 06-24-2008, 07:47 PM

People, I was wondering if someone could help me out with the following torque settings and clearances? The workshop has asked for clarification on these settings as it is not clear in the Urraco 3000 engine workshop manual and they want clarification that the 3500 engine of the Jalpa uses the same torque settings. It would be handy if I could get the foot pound or NM torque settings. I am chasing the following
1. Main (crankshaft) bearing cap nuts
2. Big end bearing nuts
3. Head bolts

I am also chasing the clearance for the crank shaft main bearings ie once the main bearings have been fitted and torqued down what is the clearance that should be measured?

TIA

Mike

Jalpa_Aus · #44 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 03:49 AM

FYI George Evans emailed me the following details

Main bearing caps nuts? - 12mm=60NM 8mm=30NM

2. Big end bearing nuts? -66NM

3. Head bolts? – 55 ft lbs. which is 74.6NM MUST ME DONE IN 3 STEPS THEN REDONE 2 TIMES OVER 2 DAYS

4. What is the clearance for the main bearings, ie once the main bearings have been fitted and torque applied what is the clearance that should be measured?

.0025”-.0035” THIS IS IMPORTANT

Laust · #45 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 11:44 AM

That’s good to know.

It is actually possible to tighten all the cylinder-head nuts with the cams installed, but it does require some machining/grinding on a hex-socket as shown in the 5th picture here:
Laust's Jalpa Project, Page 5

With a turbocharged engine and therefore higher combustion pressure, it is wise to increase the clamping force on the head, so I (as usual) did things a little differently.

Jalpa_Aus · #46 (**permalink**) 07-02-2008, 08:08 PM

Laust,
Thanks for that info, I know the wokshop have put the cams back in before the heads have gone back on so I'm sure they will appreciate this information

Thanks
Mike

MAtthew Howison · #47 (**permalink**) 07-12-2008, 05:58 PM

Hi Laust I was reading about your espada rebuild. Amazing work. It is impossible to get 15 tyres new here in Australia any more., so I now have to look at getting different wheels which I am trying to avoid. Can you still get 15s in US and who makes them ? thanks Matthew

Laust · #48 (**permalink**) 07-13-2008, 11:46 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MAtthew Howison

Hi Laust I was reading about your espada rebuild. Amazing work. It is impossible to get 15 tyres new here in Australia any more., so I now have to look at getting different wheels which I am trying to avoid. Can you still get 15s in US and who makes them ? thanks Matthew

Oh yes they are still sold here.
Here is a reference to a major tire outlet (Tirerack) where you can select tire sizes. I prefer the 225/60-15, but they even have 215/70-15 as well, if you want a more original profile.
Search for Tires by Size

Sorry for the non-Jalpa OT.

Jalpa_Aus · #49 (**permalink**) 07-24-2008, 07:24 AM

I had the rear shocks rebuilt while I was waiting for the motor to come back. I followed Lambosavy's thread on Jalpa shocks and the talk of using the Koni 8610-1437 inserts. I went to a local Koni suspension shop and theyadvised that they were are able to get the 8610-1437 inserts but advised that they would strip mine down and find a suitable koni adjustable insert to fit. They koni insert they went with was Koni 8641 1038 sport. This fitted with no spacing required and just the end needed to be remachined and threaded to fit the existing housing. As the ride height on the car is Ok I had them Re- powder coat the spings and housings. I have included the photo of the finished product.

Jalpa_Aus · #50 (**permalink**) 07-24-2008, 08:44 AM

Sent the engine off to the the work shop to get rebuilt back in January this year, I finally picked it up yesterday. I sourced most of the parts for them to do the wotk including the complete gasket set, new stainless steel valves, new bigend bearings and rings. One of the liners was replaced as mentioned earlier in this thread. All components were acid dipped and wet blasted, the crank was crack tested & polished and I had the main tunnel & main bearings modified to have the jounals without oil holes drilled with oil holes to the main gallery, this was a recommendation from Geroge Evans Last picture so this modification was done.
The first picture shows the engine the day it went off to the work shop.
I liked what Ross had done with the crinkle black on the rocker covers of his Jalpa so I have done simliar, it was sprayed in the crinkle black and then the lettering and two of the fins were machined back to the aluminum. I think this looks pretty good :-) as in second picture.
The third picture is at the workshop and the extra parts they painted with the crinkle black AC pulley not on at this point.
Still got to finish preparing the engine bay before the engine can go back in, I imagine I'm still a Month or two before I'll be ready to fire her up but can't wait :-)

The Fourth picture is of the engine back at home you can see the adjustable VW oil drain down tubes and the flywheel and pulleys fitted.

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