Lamborghini Forum - Gallardo

Stolen Lamborghini's

gallardo dave — Wed, 08 Sep 2010 04:41:22 GMT

a 2008 Gallardo Superleggera ( orange ) and a 2008 Gallardo Spyder ( blue ) were stolen 8/28 in West Hills California. Same owner, same day..
anyone hear anything?

clutch pedal joint noise/feel?

canilive — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 05:49:01 GMT

Total noob question but how should the clutch pedal feel/sound when pressed during shifting? Just got a G and the clutch at first was very smooth--no noise or squeeks when shifting through the gears. Then had an electrical issue and the dealer took it to their mechanic for a few days. Car came back with 80 miles more, dirty, and half a tank of gas gone. Clutch pedal now squeeks and has a tinge of more resistance than before through the gears. Maybe I'm imagining it or didnt notice it before. Is this normal?

Brake Pads

cookdesk — Tue, 07 Sep 2010 01:06:57 GMT

Hi Guys

I am pretty sure my brake pads are worn (squeaking noise has started post track day).. also the handbrake is no longer holding the car effectively so could well be a symptom of that.

My only question is if that was the case would not the sensor have detected them ?

Thanks in advance..

Park in 1st or Neutral?

Spyderrr — Mon, 06 Sep 2010 16:48:35 GMT

Have read varying opinions on here, some say park in N, the tech at my dealership said park in gear as the clutch will disengage automatically after you shut the engine off. The latter seems more intuitive, and when I've parked in N there is a long bell and a big fat N on the display after you switch off the ignition. Any thoughts?

creaking noise below 25mph

colonels — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 22:25:16 GMT

08 gallardo spyder
it makes the creak when i activate lift system up or down, and also when i go over bumps under 25mph (for some reason faster speeds don't make any noise)... when going over bumps its a quick creak noise like jumping on bed 1 time, when using lift system its same noise but little longer as the car jacks up

i have isolated creaking noise coming from passenger front area... definately under the dash but not sure if it is coming from the shocks since they are very close to the footwell area

i looked under dash all i saw was fuse box

definately not the glove box, or any leather/plastic parts as i have WD-40 the entire side

any ideas?
i am guessing something tied into the suspension needs greasing but it would have to be part of the lift system also?

Gallardo purchase

gerardsick — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 12:31:14 GMT

Hi Guys
Just sold my 1991 Diablo with damaged engine on Ebay Australia.
I am buying a Gallardo on Wednesday In Australia. It is a UK Import 2005
Does any one out there no if there is available soft ware to change the navigation for Australia and is it Expensive.
May require new front disc rotors later and just in case for later are Kevlar clutch plates are available? and where is the best place for parts.

regards
Shalin

DIY clutch change (transmission removal)

gvan — Sat, 04 Sep 2010 03:46:03 GMT

So I started taking my car apart tonight in preparation for the installation of my new clutch. I want to document the process for anyone else who might be interested in doing this. I'm not done yet but want to document before I forget. I don't have a decent camera available so I'll snap pictures of everything during reassembly. I should clarify that, because of my aftermarket exhaust, I don't have the huge mufflers in the back of the car making things much more accessible. You may have to remove these if you have them.

1. Remove the rear bumper. This is quite well documented here:
Installing a Quicksilver Muffler in a Gallardo
Also documented there is removing the mufflers and their heatshield if you need to.

2. You'll need to remove the trim behind the airboxes. It's held with a bunch of torx screws all around and one hidden between the airboxes. There's 2 larger screws ou the outer corners where the engine cover rests when closed.

3. You'll then need to remove both engine side trim panels. There are 4 torx screws on one side and 3 on the other. You'll also need to remove the strut attachment points. Pull back on the clips at the end of the strut (a small screwdriver works well) and this will allow you to detach them. Hold the bootlid as you remove them as it will come down as soon as you remove even one of the struts. Prop the strut against the base of the airbox. It will hold the weight. the strut attachment points come off with a 13mm wrench. Once you get the panel out put them back in so you can reconnect the structs for the rest of the work.

4. The airbox assembly needs to be removed. Loosen the clamps on the relevant hoses. These are the 2 from the sides of the car and the 2 hoses going to the throttle bodies. There is a HUGE electrical connector on each side of the engine bay once the trim panels are out. These are held by a bracket held by 2 10mm bolts, you'll need to remove these, no need to disconnect the cables. Once you've removed these brackets you'll be able to access another two 10mm bolts on each side just below the large connector. These hold the airbox assembly. Remove these as well as a fifth 10mm bolt holding the assembly just ahead of the center of the 2 airboxes. The assembly is now loose but you'll have to remove an electrical connector as well as another air hose from the base of the airbox assembly. Once removed just carefully lift the assembly taking care not to get caught in the brackets for those huge electrical connectors. Loosen the hoses a bit and they should pop out when you pull the assembly out.

6. Put the LEFT side rear wheel back on if you took them off to remove the bumper/mufflers.

7. Jack up the car at the right-rear jacking point, with the left hand wheels on the ground. This is the safest way. make sure the handbrake is on. Unbolt the 6 allen bolts connecting the axle to the transmission. It's not necessary to remove the shield above them. For this I used a ratchet and several extensions (two 2", and one 4"). It's hard to get leverage so use the suspension components to your advantage by using the extensions . For some of the bolts I couldn't rest the head of the ratchet on anything so I placed a jackstand under there to support the extensions. This allowed me to get enough leverage.

8. You should be able to see some of the 16mm nuts that hold the transmission. There are 3 in a row in a bottom. Remove the middle one and the one closest to you on the bottom (when you're on the right side of the car), this bolt also secures one of the engine grounds. There will also be one more 16mm nut on the side of the bell housing facing you, remove this one now too. These bolts come off very easily, a 16mm hand wrench works great.

9. Put the left wheel back, lower the car, jack up the right and take that wheel off. Remove the right axle as we just did with the left.

10. Remove the last of the bottom 16mm transmission nuts (also holding a ground cable). I found this one to be pretty far to reach so I just placed my wrench on the nut from the back and pushed it with my foot from the side. These bolts can be unscrewed by hand as soon as they're loose. There's also another 16mm nut that you can easily reach from that side, get that one too.

11. The remaining 16mm nuts need to be gotten at from the top. the top right most one is in a tight spot but comes out easily with a small wrench. The others are hidden a bit behind some cables so just search around the edge and you'll find them. There's also one hidden just on the side of the starter just behind an electrical cable. A long socket and ratchet gave me the perfect dimensions to get it out. The gearbox is now free of the engine except for the transmission and clutch hoses.

12. We now need to disconnect all the stuff on the transmission that's holding it onto the car. First thing to remove is the speed sensor which is the white plug on the side of the transmission. There's also another electrical connector there closer to the back of the car. Then the shift linkages. This is actually quite neat as they have spring-loaded quick releases. You'll see the part with the spring, press that together, and the shift linkage will come out. There are 2 of these linkages. You'll then need to remove the brackets holding the linkages on the gearbox. These are attached with some Allen bolts.

13. The transmission mounts are a 24mm nut on an even bigger bolt. Mobility is limited but you can get at it with a simple 24mm wrench. Break it loose with the wrench, when use and adjustable wrench or pliers to hold the bottom part of the bolt the nuts screw into (there's holes in the frame to access them. Mobility is very limited but the nuts twist off real easily (literally holding the wrench straight up and using it like a screwdriver works fine).

14. We need to get the oil tank out of the way. Unclip the oil temperature sensor from the bottom of the oil tank. Drain the oil in the tank (drain plug's on the bottom, only 1-2 quarts should be in the tank with the car not running). Put the plug back in, and remove the big hose at the bottom and the top as well as the 3 small top ones. These last 3 come off very easily. If you can't remove the big hoses you won't have enough mobility to move the tank but you can work around this. Remove the two 13mm bolts holding the oil tank to the central crossmember. The tank is held to the bottom by 2 rubber dowels. You can just pop these out. I drove a wedged tie-rod separator at the bottom and they popped right out. Now if you weren't able to remove bottom hose, remove the 2 10mm bolts/nuts that hold on the part the hose screws into. If you were unable to remove the top hose you're going to get stuck against the muffler mount, so just unbolt that and move the muffler out of the way, this way the oil tank can move enough for the gearbox to slide by.
Now need to get my transmission jack and confirm that there's enough slack in the lines to not need to disconnect them.

15. Use a jack and prybar to work the gearbox away from the engine. You'll have to lift it a bit to clear the rear subframe. If it seems snagged just stop and look around. The "bolts" sticking out of the engine are short and easy to clear, however the middle bottom one is about 6" long and you have to work at clearing the gearbox off this one. Once clear you can let it drop down, just secure it with the jack so it doesn't fall on you because you now need to get under the car to get the clutch out.

16. Once you have the bell housing off and get under the car you'll see 9 slim but long hex bolts holding the clutch to the flywheel. These are fairly easy to break loose but can continue providing some resistance. The space is very limited so use the space INSIDE the transmission housing to move your wrench or ratchet. I repositioned the transmission with the jack to get better access to the upper far bolts. Be careful with the last bolt, the clutch is heavy. That said, if it falls that long engine bolt will most likely catch it.

17. Now you can see the flywheel, attached by 8 hex bolts. Take these off and you're done.

Just bought a Gallardo

Clown — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 21:17:57 GMT

I just bought an 07 yellow Gallardo. It should be delivered Wed. or Thurs.

I scheduled the transport company to pick up friday (today) but they decided Sunday was better. I guess not enough of us make an issue of it for them to show up on time. And, they dont know when they will deliver. Trucking industry I guess.

Shopping for a car the last couple months has been interesting. I dont seem to have what it takes to get dealers to take me seriously.

Cats exotics would not follow up with me about a car they said they would look into for me. I was going to pay them to do it. Seemed like I was bothering them.

Lamborghini Houston would not call me back with the results of an egear snapshot.

I had a PPI done at Lamborghini Miami. I didnt get what I expected for $425. Egear snap was the only usefull info. I asked about any possible paintwork..'we dont check for that'

Excell Auto in FL did take me seriously.

I ended up buying from a private party. The car is awesome. Ill put up some pix later.

5 different driving modes?

KLP640 — Fri, 03 Sep 2010 00:10:49 GMT

This website states that my LP-560 has 5 different driving modes. Can someone explain how there are 5? I thought there were just Sport, A, and Corsa. It also says that there is a thrust mode. I have head of this even before I bought the car, but how do you activate thrust mode?

2010 Lamborghini Gallardo LP560-4 Coupe - Specifications, Pictures, Prices

2010 lp560 just to clarify.

First Run with Nera at FATT at Summit Point Raceway

alive — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 17:30:45 GMT

This is the Quick & Dirty edit of my run with the Nera at FATT at Summit Point's main Summit Point Circuit on 20 July 2010.

YouTube - Lamborghini Gallardo Nera #12 at FATT at Summit Point Raceway

Leaving the office with the Gallardo...

glh — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 15:09:52 GMT

Worked late last night we have three bids in two days...

I filmed my escape!

YouTube - Leaving the office after a long day. Thank God For Toys, Lamborghini Gallardo.

Attached Images

04182010_NewWheels_c.jpg (140.4 KB)

Gallardo Eyelids

hMurcie — Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:28:17 GMT

I was wondering if anyone has seen anyplace to buy eye lids to cover up the top portion of the 04-08 Gallardo Headlight to make it look more like the smaller lp560 light. I know doing this will cover the front turn signal, but i don't signal when i drive that car anyway.

If there isn't a place that makes them then ill either just put some tint paper on my light and cover it up that way, or buy some smoke outs and cut them, or just get some paint-able sticky paper and color-match it. I think im gonna go with the paint-able paper route cuz it will look the most authentic. Which do yall reccomend?

i also want to get a LP560 front bumper, that front end looks sick!!!

To Turbo or Not to Turbo

spyder — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 18:21:30 GMT

Is it worth spending the money on the twin turbos for a G? What is a reasonable price for a TT kit? Any known side effect or problems with the reliability of the engine after installation?

Lamborghini Gallardo & Superleggera Cat-Bypass Pipes 04+ Videos & Pics Inside

Ryan@Fabspeed — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 16:24:02 GMT

Fabspeed presents their cat bypass pipes for the Lamborghini Gallardo & Superleggera. These cat bypass pipes are a direct bolt on and give you a performance increase of 10-15 HP along with a very aggressive sound.

Fits all Gallardo vehicles 2004+ coupe, spider & Superleggera.
Maxflo Sports racing catalytic converters for the fabulous Lamborghini Gallardo. Fabspeed Maxflo sports racing cats replaces the restrictive factory catalytic converters with straight pipes.
Easy simple direct replacement bolt-on for the stock heavy factory OEM Gallardo cats.
Noticeably more power and much better throttle response.
Dramatic and incredible improvement in sports car sound.
Fits all cars worldwide.
T304 stainless steel mirror polished with high performance imported sports racing catalytic converters.
The Fabspeed Maxflo sports racing catalytic converters make the Gallardo Coupe & Spider sound great and add significant power and flames at night.

YouTube - Lamborghini Gallardo with Fabspeed FLAMETHROWER

YouTube - Lamborghini Gallardo Catbypass Pipes & muffler Bypass

Price: Check our classified section or website. Call me with any questions or to order. Thanks

Is it true?

alexman — Wed, 01 Sep 2010 15:55:06 GMT

Went to look at a late 2006 car (apparently 2007 spec) car today. Dealer said this car was "radiacally" different from the early 2004 cars. I thought the differences were minor facelift and 520hp engine upgrade, but he said it was new gearbox, better clutch, etc to such an extent that these newer cars go wrong far less than early examples. He also said the clutch hasnt been changed but is good for 40,000 miles in a newer one but I thought all of them are closer good for 15,000 miles?

The premium on a later 56/07 car is around �15k - can anyone comment on if there is any truth in this and i.e. if the difference in price is probably worth it in saved bills etc..?