My Jalpa on the guage runs just one bar under the red which is very disconcerting. If I put one of those temperature guns on the temp sender it is only reading approx 85degrees Celsius. I have replaced the temp sender and run new wires from sender to guage but still the same results. I have fitted a digital guage and alarm set to 90 degrees Celsius mounted in the glove box between the seats. My oil temperature guage also runs high. I don't have much confidence in the gauges. From memory if you have high resistance you get a higher reading on the gauge. Even before I have started the car it is reading 50 degrees Celsius.
I sent you a PM and keep forgetting to follow up. I threw the weatherstripping extras in a box and it has been ready to go for weeks. Do you still want it? Check your PMs for a list of what I have.
Guys, when i put the engine back in after doing the clutch, the shift linkage is misaligned, when I grab first, sometimes i get third. Its also hard to go into second.
before i tear into it, any advice?
Is there adjustment under the tunnel near the shifter?
I also had issues once I had refitted my gearbox, there are adjustments on the linkages near the gearbox end that enable you to adjust the issues you are describing. I think I had a thread on it a few years back but search facility not much good will let you know if I find it.
Here is the procedure I used to align the shifter:
Loosen coupling part 60 at the long shaft
Loosen jam nut 28 near the transaxle (mine was glued on, multiple soakings of PB Blaster required)
This will allow the entire long shifter shaft to rotate, and as you turn it it moves the position of the gear shift lever front to back, so you can center it in the shift gate.
Once its centered, lock the jam nut 28.
Now the long shift shaft can rotate about 15 degrees (representing the side to side play of the gear shift. As you rotate the long shaft back and forth try to locate it in the center of movement. It not really possible to get it dead on, but start with an estimate, then lock down part 60 and check the shifter side to side movement in the car. If its not dead center, you wont be able to move the shifter side to side in the gate without binding on one side. It took me three or four iterations of unlocking 60, slight rotation, locking 60 checking etc.
Overall a pretty easy operation, and nicely designed.
When i had the engine out, I put in two sampling bungs on each header, and bought a Innovate Motorsport LM-2 wideband meter.
Well I finally hooked it up and recorded my first run. Overall a little rich on idle and cruise, but ok on WOT. Pretty cool little tool. I ran a tach signal from the MSD into the tool to get RPM along with A/F.
I am going to tinker with the idle mixture to get it closer to 12-13.
Spent part of the day working on the mixture. The above settings were at 3 turns out on the idle mix screws. I was able to get it to run 12.5-13 pretty consistently through out the range, but I was also getting lean overrun on lift off, sort of like a chirping sounds, very annoying. Backed out the mix screws and it just seems to run better rich.
that isnt my engine, but i did something similar, and bought a set of OEM euro airboxes and used the large metal feeder plenum so its just about stock.
I have studied it for some time, and believe there is very limited airflow through that setup....i was thinking of keeping the stock euro airboxes, and doing some rerouting to get rid of the big metal box that holds the aircleaner.
Yes, I agree with this idea. I've been dabbling with some various ideas, however, would prefer to do it by emulating it with some airflow software. Not sure what engineers use for playing with that stuff but would like to hunt it down and dabble with it. Just because an idea seems good doesn't mean it will work.
One idea was retain the tip (where the box actually inserts into the duct), delete the 90 degree bend where the air then merges into where it goes into the plenums. Essentially, make something that goes inbetween with 2 air passageways, one for each plenum, and perhaps a box air filter setup inbetween. I'm still hacking away at ideas.
I still have slight delusions these cars might be worth something someday (I know, I know...), and so part of me wants to keep it mostly original. I am realizing how stupid this sounds as i type...
Dig around here in the Jalpa section, but I think someone took the dash apart and determined that the fog switch on the dash was not actually hooked up to anything. The lights come stock wired to the turn signal lever and the fog lights function as European style "passing" lights. You pull the lever to let the guy in front of you know you want to pass. It was theorized that the switch was added for the US market, but was not actually wired in.
In short, it sounds like your car is wired up standard.
I think my high beams are normal. I will try to look into it for you.
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